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Archive for the ‘Coffee Projects’ Category

Tanzania Peaberry Lunji Estate

In Coffee Projects, New Products on July 30, 2012 at 6:38 pm

Lunji Estate is located in the Southern Highlands of Tanzania’s Mbeya Region, at the foot of the Mbeya Peak; at 2830 m, one of the highest mountains in the Southern Highlands of Tanzania. The area is of exceptional beauty and very diverse in flora and fauna. Best times of the year to visit are May to July and November / December.


About Lunji Estate:

  • 85 hectares of sandy loams to sandy clay loams
  • Bourbon-Arabica varietals of Tanzanian and Kenyan cultivars under shade of indigenous species
  • Various planting densities but distance between the rows is between 2.7 and 3 meters
  • Altitude range is 1500-1700 meters above sea level
  • Average rainfall of 1250 mm per year
  • Flowering usually occurs September to November, depending on irrigation and onset of rains
  • Harvest generally occurs between May and August

About 5% of the annual yield at Lunji Estate is Peaberry. Normally the coffee at Lunji Estate is fully washed and naturally fermented before rack sun-drying. In the case of our peaberry micro-lot, the coffee is dried inside the fruit (natural process) and hulled before storing in parchment.

Cup profile includes a balanced body, pineapple acidity, strong lavender / floral notes, and a persistently sweet aftertaste

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Raising the Bar on the Coffee Bean

In Coffee Education, Coffee Projects, In the news, Product Reviews on December 5, 2011 at 2:03 pm

Reprint courtesy of THE HAMILTON SPECTATOR

Stephen Armstrong simply doesn’t accept that some people don’t like coffee.

He can’t relate to it. It’s incomprehensible.

He’ll find them the right coffee.

It’s only a couple of minutes into an interview with a coffee non-convert when he declares that java has 800 flavour compounds, compared to wine with 250.

What’s not to like?

“Coffee is, hands down, the most complex beverage on the planet, ” says Armstrong, 42, a man with a variety of careers in his past, who’s decided that coffee is the way he can make the world a better place through his company Speakeasy.

Armstrong is a direct trade coffee importer, roaster, wholesaler and retailer.

Armstrong operates the Speakeasy Café on Ferguson Avenue North on weekends. In the small art deco space painted mauve outside, customers can buy coffee by the pound (prices ranging from $20 to $70) or the cup, sample new beans or take part in tastings (cuppings in the coffee world) or learn the right way to brew the perfect cup. More on that later.

His business is in growth mode. Armstrong has just opened a new micro-roastery in a former industrial site on Sherman Avenue North, that will join a roastery he owns in Kingville, Ont. He’s also this week closed a deal to buy The Ultimate Bean, a fair trade and organic coffee company out of Georgetown.

That acquisition will give him a client roster buying 4,000 pounds of coffee each week, roasting equipment, grinders, an invoice and accounting infrastructure and a developed brand. He will run The Ultimate Bean as a fair trade organic company and Speakeasy as a direct trader.

Armstrong works directly with coffee bean growers, helping them improve their crops and, if satisfied with the quality, buying the entire harvest. He calls it sustainable direct trade, pointing out that 90 per cent of the world’s coffee is grown on farms of three hectares or less.

While he supports fair trade, where growers pool together in a co-op to have some power in the market, he says that model isn’t about quality.

“When you work directly with the farmers, the ethics and sustainability is built in. I’m not selling politics without the quality to back it.”

So, Armstrong travels to coffee farms in Mexico, Kenya, Colombia and elsewhere to offer advice and direction to growers. His training allows him to detect problems and identify where they’ve happened in the production chain.

He is one of only 14 Q-Graders in Canada. It’s a licence earned through the Coffee Quality Institute after five days of rigorous exams. Armstrong is also a member of the Roasters Guild and teaches roasting classes for Toper North America.

Of his current offerings, Armstrong is excited about a Blue Mountain bean grown in Mexico, the only crop of the variety grown outside Jamaica. He has bought all 13 bags of this crop (152 pounds each). Where other Blue Mountain coffee sells for $60 or $65 a pound, Armstrong sells his Mexican beans for $25 a pound.

Armstrong was also the winning bidder for a Nicaraguan coffee deemed a Cup of Excellence. Those 17 bags of beans are considered among the top in the world.

This year, he added award-winning coffee creator to his list of accomplishments. Armstrong’s blend of Ethiopian coffee beans, called Kochere Gayo, was the Gold Bean java at the prestigious SIAL competition in Toronto. Based in Paris, SIAL is one of the world’s biggest food expositions.

For Armstrong, coffee is a niche business.

About 90 per cent of the coffee market is covered by corporate sellers, but Armstrong says there is plenty of room for small, independent roasteries selling interesting coffees.

“This couldn’t be more different from the double-double to go.”

Armstrong markets his world exclusives to coffee aficionados around the world. For instance, he has Japanese clients who pay $55 just in shipping every two weeks for four pounds of his Cup of Excellence coffee, which costs $30 a pound.

He is particularly proud of the world exclusive on his Kenyan Othaya coffee. With undertones of lychee fruit and red currants, it’s the most expensive green bean he’s ever bought at $9 a pound. To put that in perspective, he could buy a quality fair trade organic green coffee from an importer at $4.

Armstrong bought all 750 pounds of Othaya from its grower and was offered world exclusivity for future crops.

“If I can’t sell that, I’m in the wrong business. I should be selling blister packs to food service industry.”

Speakeasy supplies to restaurants and cafés and has recently signed a deal to provide some of the coffee services to the University of Windsor. Armstrong says he can offer better coffee at the same as the current supplier to the university. He hopes to work out similar deals with other campuses, including McMaster.

Armstrong is a father of five, ranging from 2 to 15, who landed in Hamilton when his partner Andrea Robertson came to McMaster for the midwifery program. She is now a professor at Ryerson and is working on a PhD from the University of Western Ontario.

The son of oil industry employees, Armstrong was born in Northern Ireland and grew up in Thailand, Saudi Arabia, East Germany and Portugal. His career path has been just as varied. He’s a journalism graduate from Concordia and has worked as a freelance writer, a music producer, a DJ and a chef.

Armstrong is fascinated both by the science of coffee growing and roasting and the sensory experience of enjoying it.

He brews a cup of coffee with the care of an artist. He weighs the water and the freshly ground beans.

“What you don’t measure, you can’t make better, ” he explains.

He puts the grounds in a heavy, waxy-looking filter balanced in the opening of an hour-glass-shaped glass vessel called a Chemex coffee maker. He pours a small amount of hot water (he lets boiled water sit 45 seconds first) over the grinds.

He calls this blooming, and says it allows carbon dioxide to blow off and aids with flavour extraction. Finally, he pours the water through the filter, carefully watching the digital scale.

He has a probe that measures the total dissolved solids in the liquid. The ideal is 1.25, he says. If it’s not there, you have to look at the variables like whether the water was too hot or the grind too fine.

The difference between experiencing his coffee and that sold in tins in grocery store, is something like the difference between a frozen dinner and a gourmet meal, he says. Store-bought coffee is stale, he says. It has to be because fresh-roasted coffee gives off carbon dioxide and would blow up its packaging.

“I want to sell coffee that is remarkable, spectacular and unusual. My real objective is to do that with world exclusives.”

The ABC’s of Q

In Coffee Education, Coffee Links, Coffee Projects on August 9, 2011 at 3:06 pm

More than 125 million people worldwide rely on coffee production for their livelihoods. Many of these small coffee farmers struggle to meet their basic needs.

The Coffee Quality Institute believes quality is the most important variable affecting price and livelihoods; working collaboratively with producing and consuming countries to create the institutional changes that can build a more sustainable marketplace. At the CQI’s core is a commitment to empowering coffee producers with the tools to compete in the world marketplace; as well as increase reward for quality and transparency. Simply put, prosperous communities translate into a sustainable supply of quality coffee.

It’s difficult to facilitate a discussion process around coffee quality when there are no established protocols or common language. It is important to exchange consistent and reliable information on the crop throughout the supply chain. The Coffee Quality Institute (or CQI) established the Q Grader program as a professional accreditation for coffee graders. This non-profit program aims to ease the exchange of information among professionals working in the coffee industry.

Why Q Grader certification?

1. At the heart of the CQI is a multi-faceted “solution” based approach. The CQI stresses that Q Grading comes with responsibility; it’s a license, not a certificate. People’s livelihoods are influenced by the determinations of a coffee’s quality. It’s not enough to know whether or not a coffee is good or bad; more important is to understand where these “defects” occur in the process chain and how to resolve them. i.e. Full blacks? Don’t pick up cherries that have fallen to the ground; Chipped / cut beans? Figure out if it’s happening during pulping or at the dry mill and adjust the equipment accordingly. The happy consequence? Issues of quality are resolved, the crop gets to market, and it often fetches a higher price.

2. Credentialing = credibility. There’s a lot to be said for holding one of the most highly-regarded qualifications in the coffee industry. There are always going to be highly accomplished people (particularly in the food industry) who have arrived at their positions purely from a vocational stream; but no matter what industry you work in, one of the truths of the upper echelons is credentialing. It may seem redundant to certify in a skill set you think you already have and may practice regularly, but if nothing else, it means not always having to prove your professional worth.

So back in May I decided to set out on the road to the Coffee Solutions facility in Hopedale, Massachusetts. My Q Grader process would be overseen by Rob Stephen, whom I’ve worked with over the last few years and whose breadth of coffee knowledge and industry experience has served as a model for me. Rob, Beth Anne (Q Instructor in-training), and Helen worked tirelessly to ensure everything flowed according to schedule and that everyone involved was more or less organized, well fed, and comfortable. I couldn’t have expected more.

On a purely practical level, the 8-hour drive to Massachusetts from my home in Hamilton was the closest, most affordable way to participate in the 5-day intensive.  

What is a Q Grader?

Q Graders are cuppers licensed to:

  • Assess quality levels of coffee lots
  • Differentiate between exportable & non-exportable
  • Determine Commercial / Premium / Specialty grade
  • Identify attributes of flavour
  • Detect defects & I.D. the cause
  • Give attribute points objectively
  • Describe a cup profile
  • Speak the common language of coffee
  • Calibrate with the buyer

What happens @ Q Grader exams?

There are 9 different test areas; 22 exams over 5 days. These are full days so don’t make any other plans…and despite great intentions, most of my evenings were spent resigned to my hotel room following days that would accurately be described as “intense” sensorially (hence Q Grader Intensive) I did manage to get myself out to the Coffee Solutions’ traditional Q Bowling night, and a mandatory run to Cape Cod…being from Ireland, I can’t ever resist the opportunity to go to the ocean.

Sensory skills test your ability to distinguish three of the basic tastes (sugar, salt and sour) You must not only be able to differentiate between concentrations of tastes, but also identify what type of tastes are included in a blend of two or three tastes at the same time. The three sections of this test are: reference sample, blind identification, and mixture identification. This was one of those sections that I needed to retake; fortunately I wasn’t alone so the sensory skills section was included in our Friday “scheduled” retakes. Definitely not one to over think; it’s more of a “dig deep” exam. Brutal.

Matching aroma pairsis based on Le Nez du Cafe aroma kit developed by Jean Lenoir. For each test nine numbered aroma vials and six letter-coded aroma vials are selected from the same group. The goal is to match the six letter-coded aroma vials to their corresponding numbered vials. The participant must match similar aromas and describe the name of at least three. Candidates are placed in a dark or red room to avoid matching the colour and codes of each bottle. There are four tested aroma groups: Enzymatic, Sugar Browning, Dry Distillation, and Aromatic Taints.

Organic acid matching tests your ability to distinguish the difference between a control cup of coffee and one “enhanced” with acetic, citric, phosphoric, quinic, or malic acid. It is amazing to experience the differences between a control cup of coffee and another with citric acid. The cup of coffee with citric acid significantly increases the acidity, flavor and body compared to the control. This was a particularly interesting section as a roaster; giving me a better understanding of how acids are either enhanced or degraded depending on heat (roast) and how that influences the cup profile. Bear in mind that adding food grade acids to a control cup is a little different than when acids occur naturally as a part of a particular coffee’s profile; my mouth felt most battered by the end of this day’s exams.

The ability to cup and rate coffee attributes consistently, using SCAA standards for Coffee Cupping & the SCAA Cupping Form to record results is mostly the point of the process.  Theoretically, any given value to fragrance, aroma, flavour, aftertaste, acidity, and overall impression should have similarity to any other cupper’s points provided they share the same cupping session and similar experience / sense memory. There are five sections covering coffees from Brazil, Colombia, Central America, East Africa, and Indonesia. The key here is to make decisions; being a good cupper means having an opinion.

Triangulations examine your ability to differentiate coffees from each other. Each triangulation consists of six flights of three cups each; two cups are the same and one is different…similar to the format used in “Cup Tasters” competition. The cupper’s task is to select out the one that’s different in each set. Candidates are placed in a dark or red room to prevent distinguishing between coffees based on colour, surface oil etc. There are five triangulations for a total of 30 sets.

Green Coffee Grading distinguishes between different types of green coffee defects and the ability to identify and classify them. Based on the number and types of defects, participant must be able to grade the coffee quality as either “specialty” or not.

Roasted Coffee Grading evaluates roasted coffee for “quakers.” Also tested is the ability to evaluate coffees that are over roasted, under-roasted, or baked vs. a coffee that is roasted per SCAA cupping protocol standards. The Agtron (the numerical roast level) must be identified as well as the attributes or defects cause by each type of roast.

General Knowledge examines growing, post-harvest, and coffee trade regulations. This is one of the few exams that you can actually prepare for ahead of time. The CQI suggested reading list includes: Coffee Technology by M. Sivetz; SCAA Green Coffee Defect Handbook; Coffee Brewing Handbook; and the Coffee Cupping Handbook & Protocols. I particularly recommend Sivetz if you haven’t ever been to origin; its occasionally dated, but essential reading for that “big picture” understanding of what’s happening at the producer end.

All referenced resource material is available at

Retakes for failed sections are often scheduled into the day-5 itinerary (as was the case during my own particular Q experience), but no guarantees. Stand-alone retakes are available after the intensive week, conducted during other scheduled Q Intensives. There are, or course, associated fees and restrictions on the number of retakes you can do. For international prospective Q Graders, returning to the U.S. (or wherever there’s an SCAA Certified Cupping Lab) retake opportunities could be difficult and costly…and to my understanding, only about 20% of participants pass all components by the end of the intensive week…so in most cases, you should expect to have to retake sections at some future date. Fortunately for the Canadian contingent, there is a certified lab in Montreal where Q intensives are held about twice a year. Q courses are held regularly throughout the United States. Check the CQI website for upcoming dates & locations.

The Bottom Line

Despite the stress, cost, retakes (almost no one escapes this disappointment), limited opportunity, and time away from business, I would have to say that the whole Q Grader process was well worth it.

I like to believe that I have a better understanding of all aspects of what I do in the coffee industry. I am better equipped to communicate with others in the process chain using shared “coffee” language, and draw from a broader palate of sense memory and experience when evaluating coffee.

More importantly for me, I’ve garnered the potential to enact positive change all the way along the coffee chain; from producer to roaster. I’ve always felt philosophically aligned with the CQI’s strategies for sustainable economics through quality. Now, I get to play a part in a “larger-than-me” mechanism that’s committed to systemic change in coffee.

So why are you not Q?

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Kenya AA Othaya Microlot

In Coffee Projects, New Products, Product Reviews on June 22, 2011 at 10:52 am

Othaya originated from the words “on their own” which came about as the indigenous people were trying to defend their land, “on their own.”

The heart of the Aberdare National Park is home to numerous species, including the rarely seen Bongo Antelope. Other wildlife includes the endangered black rhino, elephants, leopards, bushbucks and many others. It’s also famous for safari lodges Aberdare Country Club, The Ark, and Outspan Hotel; a tree-top hotel famous for housing Queen Elizabeth II on the night of her coronation.

We are pleased to have aquired this spectacular Kenya microlot which is expected in the roastery mid-July (flavour notes of lychee fruit and blackcurrent acidity) Even better, Speakeasy will have a first access “relationship” opportunity on future lots.

Location: Nyeri district and on the western side of Mt.Kenya

Othaya co-operative society constitutes several factories

e.g. Kagere factory, Iriaini factory, Kagonye factory

Altitude: 1700 – 1800 metres

Nearest town:  5Km from Nyeri Town

Soil: Rich Volcanic Sandy Soil

Coffee Variety: SL 34 and SL 28

Flowering season: Between March and April

Harvesting Time: Between November and December

Fermentation: Fresh River Water from Mumwe River.

Drying method: Sun Dried

Organization: Small-scale farmers in well-managed central pulverises

Growing area: Central highlands mainly at high altitude

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Make Grounds for Health

In Coffee Education, Coffee Projects, In the news, Social Justice & Environment on May 31, 2011 at 5:21 pm

We have the best coffee…and now we’re making it even better

On the heels of our international win for best new blend at SIAL 2011, Hamilton’s Speakeasy Roasteries partners with Grounds for Health to help raise money for their award-winning Cervical Cancer prevention program.

This fundrasing event is coupled with the launch of Speakeasy Cafe this Saturday June 4th at 445 Ferguson Ave. North

For the entire month of June, Speakeasy will donate $1 from the sale of every pound of our award winning Kochere Gayo to Grounds for Health. Buy 5 lbs and we’ll douible our commitment to $10.

Despite being one of the easiest forms of cancer to screen for and treat, cervical cancer kills more women in coffee-growing countries than any other form of cancer.

Women are dying from cancer that is preventable.

“Grounds for Health develops sustainable community-focused cervical cancer prevention, screening and treatment programs in coffee growing communities so that no woman need die in her prime from this preventable and curable disease. This is not only the moral thing to do; it also makes great economic sense. Research clearly shows the premature death of a mother in the developing world sentences her children – especially girls – to lives of poorer health, and fewer economic and educational opportunities. Lost productivity to the community is almost incalculable. We applaud Speakeasy Roasteries for caring about women around the word whose labors brings delicious coffee to our daily cups.” August Burns, Executive Director, Grounds for Health

Help us combat cervical cancer in coffee producing countries. Stop by Speakeasy Cafe between 8 am and 6 pm any weekend in June, or place your orders for Kochere Gayo through our webstore.

Speakeasy Cafe

445 Ferguson Avenue North

Hamilton, ON, L8L 4Z1

Saturdays & Sundays: 8 am – 6 pm

Google Map

Fresh roasted beans on-demand

“To-the-cup” brewed coffee

Espresso / Americano / Latte

Black,  green, & herbal teas + soft drinks

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The Way of the Dodo?

In Coffee Education, Coffee Projects on January 26, 2011 at 11:38 am

There’s more to roasting than the pounds produced every hour

There’s more to blending than filling out price points with cheaper stock

There’s more to brewing than the number of cups yield in a pound

There’s more to blogging than generating content for search engines

I was recently skimming the CoffeeGeek site and came across an interesting opinion piece by Mark Prince about the “state of espresso” at the end of 2010.

As both a coffee roaster and Chef de Cuisine, one key point caught my attention and really set me to thinking:

“Single origin espresso is hurting “the art of the blend”, leading some major specialty coffee roasters to put less focus on one of the most difficult things about roasting (finding the perfect blend) and thus not developing that skill as much.”

No other area of culinary production would support such a thing…a chef who can cook pasta to perfection (al dente) but lacks the basic skills to prepare a sauce won’t stay a chef for very long. Taking core components, and blending them together in different ways to produce something that’s more than the sum of it’s parts, is an essential skill in any food craft – in fact, it is the craft;  one that needs to be practiced and honed on a regular basis.

I admit my own participation in the singular fixation and pursuit of quality single-origin coffees…I mean, who doesn’t want to associate themselves with some of the best quality beans on the planet? However, it occurred to me that this might be at a cost: to the clients in higher priced “prestige” single origins; a loss to my skill as a so-called artisan roaster; and to the detriment of the Specialty coffee industry generally.

As a relative novice to roastery (with only 6 years in coffee, compared to more than 15 years experience in professional kitchens) single origin coffees can be beguiling to both the roaster and barista for a few reasons: 

  • Coffees with an identifiable personality behind them
  • Single-origins are generally easier to roast than blends
  • Single-origins can be more consistent in the brewed cup
  • Single-origins are more forgiving in the espresso shot
  • It’s easier to replicate roast & brew profiles with a single-origin

Simply put, blends demand more skill on the part of both barista and roaster…not just dark roasting out any uniqueness a coffee has to offer in the name of consistency (an approach employed too frequently); but rather the roaster, who year after year, manages to replicate blend flavour nuance regardless of season, bean availability, or origins profile.

Particular brew method can be essential to the cup flavour profile of many single-origins. For example, Cuban Serrano makes for a fantastically spicy and long-finished single-origin espresso, but nothing (no matter how hard I try) brings out its overwhelming toffee note like the Aeropress can. Consequently, single origins might also trend more Baristas away from less forgiving espresso preparation…espresso tends to accentuate the most prominent notes, losing the subtleties and delicacies…espresso doesn’t always do justice to the flavours discovered in the “cupping.” I understand the appeal in this as someone who makes no illusion of being a highly skilled barista; quality single origins are consistent in the brewed cup and often reveal the nuances that espresso won’t, making it easier for the likes of me to opt for alternate and more consumer friendly “to-the-cup” brew methods.

I’m not suggesting that roasters should spend more time cloistered away tweaking, profiling, cupping, then tweaking some more in the name of perfecting the blend…there’s already been enough of that in the name of perfecting the single-origin roast.

Specialty coffees’ tenants of quality, ethics, sustainability, and transparency are best served (in the consumer market) by more of us getting out there and selling the stuff. I believe the way to do this (partly) is with the re-emergence of well crafted (drip, not espresso) blends. In my very limited experience, I’ve found that mainstream institutions and larger buyers go for blends over single origins…the cup that keeps the most number of palates happy. I think one of the best things anyone can do to broaden their coffee business is to introduce a consistent lineup of quality blends that are directly translatable to the home brewer.  Single-origins will come and go, but a solid blend will weather any taste trend….and unfortunately, espresso isn’t most peoples’ day-to-day coffee drinking reality.

Think what could be achieved in the furthering of the “art of the blend,” if quality driven single-origin roasters everywhere realized they’ve got some of the world’s best “blending-blocks” in their very own roasteries.

If in 2010, I spent too much time in the pursuit of the single-origin, let 2011 be remembered as the year that blends re-established themselves as front-and-centre….and if not in the industry, then at least at Speakeasy.

Single-origin coffees invite an understanding of our “likes” and “dislikes”…it’s in the absence (or abundance) of particular flavours and experiences that we appreciate the single-origin.

A great blend satisfies, without ever having to ask the question “why?”

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Table Talk Sessions

In Coffee Projects, In the news on January 4, 2011 at 1:42 pm

Our next “Brew Session” will be held this Saturday (January 8th) at out Hamilton Cupping Lab location (445 Ferguson Avenue North) Be sure to arrive early, as we are expecting this one to be standing room only!

We are only days away from our Kenya microlot auctions, so this time around we will be directing our attentions to north Africa; the birthplace of coffee.

Tastings will include (but are not limited to) Kenya AA Kandara, AA Karumandi, Kariru Peaberry, Kagongo Peaberry, Ethiopian Amaro Gayo (washed & natural), a Rwanda microlot, and Yemen Mokka Matari.

Every session includes demonstrations of proper technique for “to-the-cup” brew methods (aeropress, french press, siphon pot, caramic pourover, espresso)

Interview excerpt taken from

I asked Stephen Armstrong of Speakeasy Roasteries about The Brew Sessions that Speakeasy has been hosting at their Hamilton café & cupping lab location: Google Map

How have the Brew Sessions been going at Speakeasy? Have they been successful?

“Speakeasy Brew Sessions have been very successful. The opening session saw about 25 people through the door. The objective is to get people out to learn that there are some basics to coffee that most people have never learned. We are less concerned about the numbers of people, than the knowledge they come away with. Brewed coffee during the tasting sessions is always free; it’s more about selling the culture of quality and the slow-food / social approach to coffee preparation and sharing.

Brew Session Anecdote…coffee de-gasses for 2-3 weeks after roasting. If you took fresh-roasted coffee and put it in a can, what do you think would happen? The can will explode. So if you are buying grocery store coffee in any kind of sealed container, chances are it’s stale before it ever gets packaged; it has to be for sake of shelf stability. The essential communication here isn’t buy Speakeasy coffee, or even buy better coffee (though this would help); it’s buy fresh coffee.

Brew Sessions also allow me to demonstrate a range of superior to-the-cup methods of making coffee. Lots of people appreciate the knowledge that will let them make a better cup of coffee without having to change the coffee they buy (but just change the way they brew it).

Every ‘Brew Session’ or LCBO ‘Cooking w/ Coffee‘ event I have someone who says, ‘I can usually only drink coffee with cream and sugar. I just tried five remarkably different coffees that I could drink black.’

The Brew Sessions have been enough of a success that starting in January, they will be held weekly: every Saturday from 12 to 3 pm.”

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Grapevine Radio

In Coffee Projects, In the news on January 3, 2011 at 2:30 pm

Transcription taken from

Stephen Armstrong of Speakeasy Roasteries answered a few of my questions about his connections to coffee in Hamilton. Stephen has a café in downtown Hamilton, a roastery in Kingsville (near Windsor) and a Hamilton-based roastery opening in January.

What made you interested in coffee?

“I am a classically trained Chef De Cuisine (British Craft Guild of Chefs) and a recovering alcoholic; but I gave up alcohol and kitchens at around the same time (’95). My story is that I’m basically a foodie with OCD and addictions issues, so me and Specialty coffee were a natural pairing.”

You can see Stephen’s blog “Ten things I love about Specialty Coffee” on his blog. One reason he includes is: “Specialty coffee is a ‘culture’…a slow-food approach of sitting down with people and making connections over a cup of the world’s most complexly glorious beverage. This ain’t no ‘double-double to go.’”

What are Speakeasy’s personal values and goals for coffee roasting?

“[Our goals are to be] quality driven, environmentally conscious, ethically sourced, sustainably produced, transparently operated… I love that at least 80% of what I pay for green coffee is going directly to the farmer; I love that these coffees have personalities behind them…not faceless co-ops, but individuals and families that are invested in producing something ‘better.’ It’s also satisfying as a business to be able to offer world-class, world-exclusive coffees that really make a significant difference in the lives of their producers. These are the intangibles of what I do that I find the most satisfying.

[Additionally] all Speakeasy facilities try to be as close to zero emissions as possible so I am having an afterburner made for the Ferguson location. An afterburner is a Ministry of the Environment approved emissions incinerator that is fitted to the roaster.”

What do you see Hamilton’s role being in ethical coffee consumption?

“To my understanding, Speakeasy was the first coffee roastery in Hamilton’s recent history (est. 2004). It was certainly the first Fair Trade Certified roastery in Hamilton, so I’ve always felt Hamilton could play an essential role in the growth of the ethical purchasing movement. Hamilton offers a unique environment where the mainstream coffee consumer might also be labour-issues aware; given a push in the right direction. We access a unique urbanicity that’s surrounded by a wealth of local artisan food providers, vineyards, orchards, and family run farms.”

Why have you chosen to work with Cup of Excellence and Direct Trade?

“Cup of Excellence is a third party organization that conducts ‘competitions’ in coffee producing countries. Anyone with a crop can enter. [The Cup of Excellence] jury narrows this down to the best 20 – 25. Members…are then able to bid on these coffee lots via a live auction. In this auction year, Speakeasy has acquired two different 2010 Cup of Excellence coffees.

The Direct Trade model sees coffee as a ‘seed to cup’ product – everything along the chain of production has impact on quality in the cup. In this model of quality, if you can’t eliminate links in the process chain, then the strategy is to make those “relationship” links stronger. This model rely on the roaster to do the import, shipping, quality assessments etc. (and absorb the associated costs) These models are about purchasing directly from the farmer based on quality…and based on quality, my cheapest green coffee costs me 3 times the Fair Trade minimum of $1.25 USD / lb. I might not have a certification group behind me to logo my bags, but my money couldn’t possibly be doing more.

Cup of Excellence and Direct Trade coffees guarantee ethics, sustainability, and quality. I think what’s prohibitive about Direct Trade and Cup of Excellence for many small roasters is cost. Direct Trade is often an all-or-nothing way of sourcing coffee. Single lots of coffee may cost tens if not hundreds of thousands of dollars…and that’s just for one new coffee addition. With Direct Trade, there’s no one-bag option…it’s the whole crop or nothing. Then there are the issues of traveling to ‘origin’ to source coffees, and having the skill set to assess whether prices are reflective of quality. [The next step] is getting your coffees out of origin and into Canada. Currently, Speakeasy warehouses over 20 different single-origin coffees that are direct trade, Cup of Excellence, or microlot, with a value of well over $300k; significantly different from purchasing one or two bags at a time from an importer (at a cost of about $400 for a [Fair Trade certified] bag).”

How do you see Fair Trade in terms of ethical sourcing?

“Speakeasy spent it’s first 4 years are a purely Fair Trade roastery and I continue to maintain certification. Fair Trade is a global phenomenon and essential in providing market access to small-scale farmers (Direct Trade is small in comparison).

Contrary to the popular perception of ‘plantation’ grown coffee, about 90% of coffee is produced on small family owned plots of 5 hectares or less. If your farm only produces 5 bags of coffee every crop year then it’s very difficult to gain market access, and these farmers are open to exploitation. Fair Trade pools together the product of many farms and now the 5 bags is 500 and a more attractive volume to larger buyers. The flaw in the model is that one or two of those crop lots might be spectacularly high quality coffees that are being lost in the great blending pot of collectively milled coffee…good for market access, but not so good for quality.”

Do you have any future plans for Speakeasy that you’d like to share with us?

“I am working on creating ‘green’ buying co-ops (in Canada) that will make the issues of cost less prohibitive to artisan micro-roasters that may not have the pooled resources to engage direct trade on their own.

Speakeasy now works directly with an organization called NinetyPlus; they are aptly named because all of their coffees ‘cup’ (a set of protocols used to assess the quality of roasted coffee) at 90 points or higher. The members of this group work with farmers to improve all aspects of their coffee process. Speakeasy is discussing the possibility of taking on land in Panama that will be managed by NinetyPlus. What’s most interesting is that this group are not specifically coffee-based, but rather, specialists in the fields of agricultural micro-management, multi-culture crop environments, cross-strain varietals horticulture (i.e. agro-scientists).”

What’s your favourite Speakeasy coffee that you are currently offering?

“[My current favourite,] the Kenya Kagongo, tastes like freshly squeezed grapefruit… Speakeasy coffees try to offer experience…not coffees you would necessarily drink day after day… Because we generally buy small-lot coffees, it’s unlikely that we will even offer the same roster of beans 6 months from now. Love it or hate it, everyone who tries our coffees says ‘wow, I’ve never tasted anything like that in a cup of coffee before.’”

You can visit Speakeasy and drink some delicious coffee at the Speakeasy care at 445 Ferguson Avenue North.

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Think Local, Eat Ontario

In Coffee Projects on January 1, 2011 at 3:04 pm

Eat Ontario (Canada) is the province’s first true Diner’s Club, with over 370 participating restaurants that include independantly owned bistros, multinational franchises, specialty coffee houses, and locally sourced wine bars.

Now you can also enjoy a 20% discount on all Speakeasy coffees when you use your eatontario card on webstore orders, or at the Hamilton roastery. Stop by our Ferguson Ave. North location (Google Map) on January 8th from 12 to 3 pm for the next installment of “Brew Sessions.” We will be tasting some new crop Kenya microlots + AA Kandara, AA Karumandi, Kariru Peaberry, and Kangongo Peaberry.

An eatontario membership gives you up to 50% off the total food bill, or two meals for the price of one at many of our participating restaurants. What’s more, you can always order from the full menu.

How your eatontario membership card works:

1.) Search for a restaurant
     Either on the website or in the eatontario directory

2.) Enjoy your meal!
     It’s as simple as that!  No tricks. It’s pretty straight forward!

10-50% OFF the total food bill means that multiple diners can eat and receive up to a 50% discount on food with just one eatontario membership. Please check the individual restaurant notes for maximum numbers permitted per eatontario card.

eatontario cannot be used in conjunction with any other offer

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Speakeasy ist eine Leipziger?

In Coffee Projects, New Products on November 29, 2010 at 4:18 pm

So why Germany for a new Speakeasy roastery? Michael Ballack thinks it’s a good idea. You’re not going to argue with Ballack, are you???

My recent location tour took me through 6 different countries in 13 days: the US, Denmark, Ireland, England, Holland, and Germany. Almost every country I’ve travelled to has it’s own “apostles” of coffee…Wendelboe, Square Mile, La Boheme, Intelligensia, Coffee Collective – the list of quality driven coffee roasters & retailers seems to grow by the day. The Germans are a different sort altogether; definitely with a reputation for coffee consumption, but not so much for coffee production. Pick a country and I could suggest a handful of quality, micro-roasted brew spots. When I think of Germany I think…Probat? I’m sure to get a barrage of email suggesting one place or another, but off-hand nothing immediately comes to mind.

I was suprised to discover that one of the oldest coffee houses in Europe (and the longest in continuous operation) can be found in Leipzig, Germany. Surprised, because I lived in Leipzig for two years shortly after German re-unification, and had no idea that this place even existed. To my defense, I wasn’t “in coffee” then, and the cafe space remained closed throughout most of the 90’s (during my tenure as “Leipziger”)

In 1694 Heinrich Schütze opened the “Zum Arabischen Coffe Baum” and gave out free coffee. The sandstone sculpture above the doorway to “Coffe Baum” is especially famous. An ottoman offers cupid a cup of coffee; a meeting of the Christian western world with the Islamic East. None other than Augustus the Strong was supposed to have donated this sculpture as a way of saying thank you to the landlady, who had taken exceptional care of him.

At first, coffee was considered a beverage of the nobility. The middle and lower classes were not introduced to coffee until the early 18th century, and it was much later that it came to be prepared and consumed at home. As coffeehouses were the domain of men, women of status established their own “coffee clubs.”

Over the following three centuries, many notable personages met here and enjoyed the popular drink. Gottsched, Klinger, ETA Hoffmann & Wagner were often seen going in and out. Goethe, Lessing, Bach, and Grieg were also guests there.

In the Schumann Room situated on the ground floor, Robert Schumann would meet with friends at his regular table between 1828 and 1844. Revolutionaries such as Blum, Liebknecht and Bebel also made “Coffe Baum” their second living-room. In 1990 Helmut Kohl and Lothar de Maizière discussed the possibilities of reunification here.

Between 1993 & 1998 the vacant building was purchased from the federal government by the city of Leipzig, and underwent extensive restoration. A coffee museum was added to the original restaurant and cafe spaces, and officially opened in 1999.

The exhibit showcases coffee grinders, Meissen porcelain, coffee cups (including one used by Napoleon in 1813), hand roasters, vessels used for making coffee, coffee house codes of conduct, coffee substitutes, coffee house music, and a modern Probat sample roaster. The more than 500 items on display give insight into more than 300 years of Saxon coffee culture.

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